Complete Wildlife Control Services are provided throughout California. This site provides California's top Professional Wildlife Control and Nuisance Animal Removal Experts. We provide services for the removal and control of Skunks, Raccoons, Squirrels, Bats, snakes and other nuisance wildlife in all of California. More information on wildlife removal services in you area of California are provided below. We have animal removal professionals listed for every part of the state, if you don't see your area covered send us an email in the contact us section of this website and we will find you a professional to assist you with your problem.
Los Angeles Area Wildlife Removal Operators
Alhambra, Anaheim, Burbank, Culver City, Downey, Glendale, Hawthorne, Huntington Beach, Inglewood, Isleton, Long Beach, Los Angeles, Montebello, Moreno Valley, Orange County, Riverside, San Bernardino, Santa Ana, Santa Maria, Santa Monica, Torrance, Ventura, Westchester.
Northern California Wildlife Removal Operators
North Central Coast California Wildlife Removal Operators
San Francisco Bay Area Wildlife Removal Operators
Southern California Wildlife Removal Operators
Central Valley California Wildlife Removal Operators
Fresno Bakersfield CA, Chico CA, Crescent City CA, Davis CA, Eureka CA, Fremont CA, Hayward CA, King City CA, Lancaster CA, Modesto CA, Palmdale CA, Redding CA, Santa Rosa CA, Simi Valley CA, Stockton CA, and all areas in between. California is one of our largest states having many different Wildlife removal companies in which you can make your selection from. Squirrel removal, Bat removal, Snake removal, Raccoon removal, Groundhog removal, Feces removal, Goose removal, Skunk removal are only a few of the services that California's Wildlife Removal Agents Specialize in. California Wildlife Removal agents are located throughout California. O
ur listing provides expert wildlife removal and animal control services and removal throughout the entire state of California including: Riverside, CA Long Beach, CA San Diego, CA Santa Ana, CA Los Angeles, CA Simi Valley, CA Palmdale, CA Lancaster, CA Santa Clarita, CA Bakersfield, CA Fresno, CA Stockton, CA Modesto, CA San Jose, CA Hayward, CA Sacramento, CA San Francisco, CA Fremont, CA Woodland, CA Davis, CA King City, CA Santa Rosa, CA Napa, CA Chico, CA Redding, CA Eureka, CA Crescent City, CA San Bernadino, CA and all areas of California.
Our Integrated pest and wildlife management/removal services include wildlife control, wildlife removal, animal control and animal removal, dead animal removal, along with performing cleanup services and making repairs caused by wildlife to residential properties, industrial properties, commercial properties and government facilities. California Wildlife Removal has a wide area of coverage including all towns and communities within the counties between Northern California and Southern California.
About California Wildlife Removal
California Wildlife Removal is a personalized and professional wildlife removal referral company and animal control removal service that operates in Northern California, Central California and Southern California. We operate our business with integrity and professionalism holding the safe humane removal of wildlife, nuisance animal or pests as well as the safety of the homeowner and their property in high regard and as our priorities. The industry-trained and certified technicians who provide California Wildlife Removal has 24-hour service are reliable, respectable and safe to have in your home, business, or facility. California Wildlife Removal responds to all service removal requests throughout CA in a timely and responsible manner no matter what the customer's needs are.
All animals are trapped and removed in a humane manner, which is what you should expect from a reputable and humane wildlife removal service. The most common wildlife removal, pest control, and animal trapping services needed are the removal of bats, removal of bees, birds, mice, raccoons, removal of squirrels, rats, removal of snakes, and geese which we expertly and professionally perform in a timely and quality manner. Whatever your needs, California Wildlife Removal will consult with you and provide solutions to remove any wildlife or nuisance animal, repair the damage they may have caused, and take steps to prevent the wildlife from returning and reentering your home or property. Some of the Wildlife Management, Wildlife Removal and Animal Control Services Our CA Operators Provide are as Follows:
- Animal removal from residential, commercial or government properties throughout California
- Animal control to prevent damage and infestation to your California Home
- Wildlife removal to prevent harm to family and property
- Wildlife control to keep them off your California property
- Dead animal removal from your CA property, attic or crawl space
- Removal of squirrels, raccoons, bats, nests from your warm CA attics
- Removal of animals, pests and rodents from crawl spaces
- Removal of birds, bats, and raccoons from chimneys
- Clean up animal or wildlife residue and droppings from attic areas and crawlspaces
- Clean up and removal of animal or wildlife residue and droppings from crawl spaces and Attic areas
- Prevention/Exclusion of animals in your warm CA attic
- Prevention and removal of animals in crawl spaces
- All types of nesting
- Removal of squirrel nests
- Removal of snakes
- Geese repellent to keep geese from invading your CA property
- Wildlife and animal exclusion to prevent the return of nuisance wildlife
- Repair damage to roofs, eaves, soffits and other parts of your home caused by animals
Our specialty is to provide solutions for your pest problems which may include tree sheathing to prevent damage to your landscaping by beavers or other animals. We’ll address your concerns about nuisance animals such as geese that take over and control your property, making it impossible to enjoy your yard or even leave the house. We offer expert service and methods that really work to rid your home or business of animals, wildlife and pests and ensure that they will not return.
California Wildlife Removal has only full-service company’s that will assist customers with problems caused by squirrels, raccoons, bats, snakes, birds, bees, fox, skunks, deer, geese, groundhogs, opossums, turtles, rabbits, chipmunks, and more.
They provide skunk trapping, raccoon trapping, beaver trapping, snake trapping, bee containment, geese repelling, removal of dead animals, bird control, bird nest removal, bee nest removal, tree sheathing and other services that make us one of the best wildlife removal and animal control service companies serving To prevent your home, yard and family from being victims of nuisance wildlife and animals, call the folks on the California Wildlife Removal page! They will assess the problem and provide a quick and humane solution to removing the problem and preventing the animal from returning.
Attic Cleaning / Crawlspace Cleaning
Once the type of nuisance animals, pests, or rodents that are nesting, making noise, or chewing on your wiring in your CA attic or crawlspace has been identified - whether it be squirrels, raccoons, rats, bats, birds or bees – they will be trapped and removed from your attic or crawlspace. California Wildlife Removal can then remove the insulation that might be damaged or contaminated with droppings, urine and odors in a safe and clean way!
The most common nuisance animals are squirrels, skunks, raccoons, bats, snakes and geese in CA and California Wildlife Removal has solutions to ridding your home or business of these animals in a safe and humane manner. California animal removal operators are experts at trapping squirrels, trapping raccoons, trapping beavers, trapping snakes, trapping bats, trapping skunks, and making your yard geese-repellent!
There are four species of tree squirrels in California, excluding the small nocturnal flying squirrel, which is not considered a pest. Of the four, two species are native and two are introduced from the eastern part of the United States. In their natural habitats, they eat a variety of foods including fungi, insects, bird eggs and young birds, pine nuts, and acorns, plus a wide range of other seeds. Squirrels sometimes cause damage around homes and gardens, where they feed on immature and mature almonds, English and black walnuts, oranges, avocados, apples, apricots, and a variety of other plants. During ground foraging they may feed on strawberries, tomatoes, corn, and other crops.
Squirrels have a habit, principally in the fall of digging holes in garden soil, or in turf, this is where they bury their nuts, acorns, or other seeds. This caching of food, which they may or may not ever retrieve raised havoc in the garden and destroys lawns. These rodents sometimes gnaw on telephone cables and may chew their way into wooden buildings or invade attics through gaps or broken vent screens. The tree squirrel can carry diseases including Tularemia and Ringworm, these diseases are transmittable to humans. These rodents are also frequently infested with fleas, mites and other ectoparasites.
Squirrel Biology and Behavior
Tree squirrels are active during the day and are frequently seen in trees, running on utility lines, and foraging on the ground. Tree squirrels are easily distinguished from ground squirrels and chipmunks by their long bushy tails and lack of flecks like spots or stripes, and the fact that they escape by climbing trees and other structures. All are chiefly arboreal, although the fox and western gray squirrel spend considerable time foraging on the ground. Tree squirrels do not hibernate and are active year-round. They are most active in the early morning and later afternoon. Tree squirrels are active during the day and are frequently seen in trees, running on utility lines, and foraging on the ground. Tree squirrels are easily distinguished from ground squirrels and chipmunks by their long bushy tails and lack of flecks like spots or stripes, and the fact that they escape by climbing trees and other structures.
All are chiefly arboreal, although the fox and western Grey squirrels spend considerable time foraging on the ground. Tree squirrels do not hibernate and are active year-round. They are most active in the early morning and late afternoon. Eastern fox squirrels (Sciurus niger) were introduced from the eastern part of the United States and are well established in most major cities of California. Some people enjoy seeing them and introduced them to new territories. In some cities, eastern fox squirrels have moved outward into agricultural land, especially in the southern part of the state, where they have become a pest of commercial crops. Eastern Grey squirrels (S. carolinensis) were originally introduced from the eastern United States into Golden Gate Park in San Francisco, California. They are also established in areas of Calaveras and San Joaquin counties in California and may be expanding their range. Native western Grey squirrels (Sciurus griseus) are found throughout much of California, primarily in oak woodlands of the foothills and valleys and in pine/oak forests, where they feed on a variety of seeds, fungi, and other plant materials. They also have a tendency to strip bark in order to access and feed on the cambium layer, causing injury to trees. Native Douglas squirrels (Tamiasciurus douglasii), sometimes called chickarees, are found in mostly conifer-forested regions of the north coastal area and along the Sierra Nevada Mountain region.
Because of the habitat in which they thrive, these two native tree squirrels are not usually pests, except for the damage they can do in forest regeneration projects. They may, however, become garden or home pests in some of the more remote rural areas.Of the four tree squirrels, the eastern fox squirrel, sometimes called the red fox squirrel, is by far the most serious pest to homes and gardens in urban and suburban situations. This squirrel can be differentiated from the others by its brownish red-orange fur. Tree squirrels naturally nest in tree cavities, enlarged woodpecker holes, or high in a tree in a spherical nest they construct of twigs, leaves, and shredded bark. Breeding occurs in the late winter or in the spring and, depending on the species of tree squirrel, produces one or two litters per year of three to five young. For those producing two litters, the breeding period is extended.
Tree squirrels are classified as game mammals by the state Fish and Game Code and can be controlled only as provided by the hunting regulations. Any owner or tenant of land or property that is being damaged or destroyed or is in danger of being damaged or destroyed by Grey squirrels must apply to the California Department of Fish and Game for a permit to control such squirrels. The Department, upon receipt of satisfactory evidence of actual or immediately threatened damage or destruction, may issue a revocable permit for the removal and disposition of such squirrels. When a permit to trap the Grey squirrel is issued, the Department may designate the type of trap to be used and may also require that squirrels be released in parks or other nonagricultural areas. It is not legal to use poison baits to kill tree squirrels. Eastern fox squirrels found to be injuring growing crops or other property may be controlled at any time and in any legal manner by the owner or tenant of the premises without a permit.
In urban and suburban areas tree squirrels are difficult to control because of their great mobility and because many people feed and provide nest boxes for the squirrels in order to encourage their presence. It is relatively easy to keep squirrels out of buildings, but keeping them out of a yard or garden is a continuous challenge.
The detection of tree squirrels is fairly easy because they are active during daylight hours and are highly visible. If tree squirrels visit your garden or yard on a regular basis, it is likely that damage will occur at certain stages of crop development, particularly with fruit and nut crops. If squirrels are seen in your trees, some kind of preventive action should be taken; squirrels can strip a tree of its crop in a short time.
Trees that overhang roofs or are close to telephone lines should be cut back to slow the movement of squirrels about the yard. Anything that can be done to make a garden less attractive to squirrels is helpful.
It is virtually impossible to keep squirrels out of fruit or nut trees because of their superb climbing and jumping ability. Sometimes if there are other unprotected fruit or nut trees available to the squirrels, you can protect the crop of a single tree by netting it as you would to exclude depredation birds. While squirrels can readily gnaw through the plastic netting, they may not persist if sufficient alternative food is easily available.Squirrels can be discouraged from digging up newly seeded or established crops by covering the rows with cage like freestanding covers made of one-inch hexagon chicken wire. If squirrels are present around bird feeders, they are usually able to raid them and steal the food. Numerous devices and methods are commercially available from specialty catalogs for physically excluding tree squirrels from feeders; some of these work better than others. Tree squirrels are amazingly clever and agile so just about any feeder is susceptible.
All-metal tunnel or tube-type traps are becoming more popular for killing eastern fox tree squirrels. The design of these traps affords good protection to larger non-target animals, and the trapped animal remains partially out-of-sight. The Conibear® #110 trap, a jaw-type body-gripping trap, is also an effective tree squirrel trap when set inside a trap box with the bait placed behind the trap. Several choker-type box traps are sold for removing tree squirrels. They look similar to those used for trapping pocket gophers except that the triggers are often reversed so that the bait must be pulled to activate instead of pushed, as is the case with pocket gopher traps. In fact, modifying certain wooden choker-type gopher traps can make a tree squirrel trap. dual-trap assembly, place two box traps back-to-back and secure them to a board. Before placing traps, determine the squirrels' travel routes and locate traps in or as close to them as possible. Trees and rooftops are often good locations for placement. Locate and secure traps so that they cannot be easily dislodged. Anchor them with a wire or light chain so a predator cannot carry the trap and the catch away. Bait the traps but do not set them for several days to allow the squirrels to steal the bait and become accustomed to the trap.
Once the bait is regularly eaten, set the traps, and rebate, tying the bait to the trigger with fine thread or string. Use rubber or plastic gloves when handling dead squirrels. Place dead squirrels in a plastic bag and seal to confine any ectoplasm. The carcasses can then be discarded in a garbage can. Sometimes ordinary rat snap traps are suggested for tree squirrels, but these are often not powerful enough to kill mature squirrels and are best not used. There are other kill traps available for squirrel-sized animals, but these are not always sold locally and may have to be ordered from a trapper supply firm. Live-catch cage traps are also available, but once caught the squirrel must be disposed of, presenting a problem for some. Remember, releasing an eastern fox tree squirrel elsewhere is illegal.
Considering this problem, live-catch traps are not recommended. A kill trap is usually the most effective way to thin out the population, though new squirrels will move in to fill the void. Trapping usually becomes an ongoing process once the neighborhood is populated with tree squirrels. To modify a gopher trap, lengthen the trigger slot with a rattail file so the trigger can swing unhindered and the squirrel can pass beneath the unset trap. Remove the back and replace it with a 1/4-inch mesh hardware cloth, which allows the squirrels to see the bait from both ends but prevents access without passing through the trap. For a
Other Control Methods
Tree squirrels quickly become habituated to visual or sound frightening devices and pay little attention to them after a couple of days. A number of these devices are on the market, but none have proven very effective. Where shooting is not prohibited, the eastern fox tree squirrel can be taken at close range with a pellet gun. Check with local authorities to determine if this method is legal in your area. Tree squirrels are quick to escape when pursued by predators. Some dogs that have full run of the yard will keep squirrels at bay. Predators in urban and suburban areas generally have little effect on tree squirrel populations.
There are various approaches to resolving raccoon problems. In some communities, the situation has become so severe that it is beyond the ability of the individual homeowner to solve the problem. In these instances, a community effort may be the only effective solution. City parks, green belts, golf courses, and highway and street plantings may serve as reservoirs for raccoons by providing them with den sites and travel routes. Storm drains and street and road culverts are commonly used as dens. Since these areas are under the control or management of the city, it is often imperative that the city be involved in finding solutions. The city can also invoke and enforce a ban on feeding raccoons. The city can also do much to educate the public on the best ways to handle an area-wide urban raccoon problem and discourage individuals from live trapping and relocating animals, which only exacerbates the problem.
Raccoons in the garden may be observed at night or they may come up to a sliding glass door and peer inside. Evidence of feeding, tracks, and droppings may provide clues to their visits. Of course, noises on the roof, in the chimney, or in the attic let you know of their presence. An occasional visit by a raccoon or a family of raccoons may not be a cause for major concern, but if these visits become commonplace and raccoons are also climbing on your roof, some action is probably warranted.
A variety of materials, gadgets, and devices designed to frighten raccoons and other wildlife are on the market. These include flashing lights, sound-producing devices, and water-squirting units, all of which can be activated by motion detectors. In addition, radios, scarecrows, and flags and windmills that spin or flutter in the wind have been used. Unfortunately, none of these are very effective and, at best, may frighten only for a few days, after which the raccoons seem to ignore them, having learned that they present no real threat.
There are a few commercial chemical repellents available to repel various forms of wildlife, but none have been effective for raccoons. Mothballs, blood meal and a wide variety of other home remedies have been tried, also to no avail as raccoons are quick to adapt.
Other Control Methods
Dogs kept outdoors may alert you to the presence of raccoons and may frighten some away; however, some raccoons will attack dogs and cause serious injuries. Since they are usually active at night when they are most difficult to see, shooting is rarely the solution to nuisance raccoons, even in rural areas where shooting is legal. For the average homeowner, unfamiliar with trapping raccoons, it is advisable to hire a professional wildlife control operator to remove the animal. The professional will have the proper equipment to accomplish the task and will be able to tell if a trapped female is nursing its young. This is very important because you don’t want to leave young behind to starve. The professional will also have the means to euthanize the animals, since releasing them elsewhere is prohibited by law. Released animals may return or present a problem to someone else and, in fact, the animal you have trapped may have been deliberately released near you. The release of animals is a major factor in the dissemination of numerous diseases to other animals.
Some counties have trapping programs for nuisance animals, including raccoons. Contact your local agricultural commissioner to see if this service is available. Raccoons are fairly easy to trap; however, occasionally a clever and cunning animal will be quite elusive. A live cage-type trap is usually the preferred trap for homeowners, although others are available that may be used by professionals to capture the more difficult animals. The single-door trap should be sturdily constructed and its dimensions should be at least 10 x 12 x 32 inches. Larger 15 x 15 x 36-inch traps are even better. Canned tuna or canned fish-flavored cat food make excellent baits but may also attract non target cats and dogs. To avoid catching cats, try using marshmallows, grapes, prunes, peanut butter, or sweet rolls. Small pieces of bait should be placed along a path leading up to the trap. The rear of the trap should be covered with 1/2-inch wire mesh to prevent the raccoon from reaching through the trap from the outside to steal the bait. Traps should be well anchored to the ground or weighted to prevent the animal from tipping the trap over to obtain the bait. Traps should be set at night and closed in the morning to avoid trapping non targets.
Remember, raccoons are intelligent and clever animals. They are also powerful and can be vicious when trapped or cornered. Exclusion is the key to eliminating den sites, but remember that raccoons are powerful animals and can become vicious when cornered. Their front paws are hand-like, with toes that are long, flexible, and considerably dexterous. Raccoons are known to unhook simple latches. Ordinary fences will not keep raccoons from gardens or yards, as the animals will either dig under or climb over them. Raccoons readily locate weaknesses in fences and will rip off loose boards or enlarge holes in wire fences for easy access. By exploiting the raccoon’s sensitivity to electric shock, an ordinary fence can be made raccoon-proof by adding a single electrified strand of wire 8 inches above the ground and about 8 inches out from the base of the fence. A pulsating high-voltage, low-amperage fence charger, similar to that used for confining cattle, is used to electrify the fence. Electrified wire wrapped around the trunk of a tree will discourage climbing. A low, two-wire electric fence can be very effective for excluding raccoons from sweet corn, melons, and other highly preferred crops. The two wires are fastened on evenly spaced wooden posts; one wire is 6 inches above the ground and the other is 12 inches above the ground. The fence charger needs to be activated only from dusk to dawn. This type of low electric fence can be installed around a newly laid sod lawn to prevent raccoons from rolling back the new sod in search of insects or grubs. The fence is removed once the turf has taken root. Such fences around ponds are sometimes used to protect koi and goldfish from raccoons. Before installing an electric fence, explore the pros and cons of its use and, if used, be sure the electric charger is appropriate for the task. Remember that electrified fences are not appropriate for all situations, must be installed properly, and should always be identified with warning signs.
Prevent access to chimneys by covering them with a spark arrester that meets the fire code of your area. These caps will keep raccoons, tree squirrels, rats, and birds out of the chimney, but be sure they are tightly secured to prevent raccoons from pulling them loose. Open spaces beneath structures, such as porches, decks, and garden and tool sheds, should be tightly screened with 1/4- or 1/3-inch galvanized hardware mesh. The bottom edge of the wire should be buried at least 6 inches deep, extended outward for 12 inches, and then back-covered with soil. Such measures will exclude not only raccoons but skunks, opossums, squirrels, and rats as well. Raccoons are attracted to gardens or homes because they offer a food resource and potential den sites.
Efforts to reduce available food can include using metal garbage cans with secure lids. To prevent raccoons from tipping over garbage cans, place the cans in a rack or tie them to a secure post. Pet food left outdoors should be removed before nightfall. Pick up fallen fruits and nuts frequently. Never intentionally provide food for raccoons, and discourage your neighbors from this practice as well; it only attracts more raccoons.If possible remove woodpiles or other materials raccoons can den in our under. Thinning out overgrown shrubbery will reduce cover. To reduce access to the roof, cut back any tree branching hanging over rooftops, leaving a gap of at least 5 feet between the roof and the tree. Trellises and arbors attached to homes may facilitate access to the roof and consideration should be given to their removal. While habitat modification is ofter helpful, it is rarely a total solution.
In California, raccoons are classified as furbearers. The fur harvest season is set by the California Department of Fish and Game, which further determines when and how raccoons may be taken. Raccoons causing damage may be taken at any time by legal means. The California Department of Fish and Game Regulations prohibit the relocation of raccoons and other wildlife without the written permission of the Department. For further information, contact the Department of Fish and Game. Damage to gardens may be relatively minor compared to the potential damage a raccoon can do to a house. Females in search of nesting sites may rip off shingles, fascia boards, or rooftop ventilators to get into the attic. Once inside the attic, insulation on walls may be torn up and displaced, and insulation on heating and air conditioning ducts may be ripped off and destroyed. Raccoons may begin using an area of the attic for a latrine, and the ceiling beneath may become stained with urine, accompanied by an objectionable odor. Ectoparasites may infest the attic and migrate to other parts of the house. Uncapped chimneys are often used as den sites, as are spaces beneath porches and decks. Doors covering crawl spaces are sometimes damaged in an effort to den beneath the house. Raccoons prefer wooded areas near water and in natural habitats. They den in hollow trees, ground burrows, brush piles, or rock crevices. This nocturnal animal adapts extremely well to urban and suburban environments, where it often dens in backyards, beneath decks, or inaccessible outbuildings. Attics, chimneys, and the spaces beneath houses are also used as dens if access can be gained.
Because they are active mostly at nighttime, raccoons are often present but may go undetected for some time. Raccoons are omnivorous, eating both plants and animals. Plant foods include all kinds of fruits, berries, nuts, acorns, corn, and other types of grain. Animal foods include crayfish, clams, fish, frogs, snails, insects, turtles, rabbits, muskrats, and the eggs and young of ground-nesting birds, including waterfowl. In urban settings, in addition to feeding on backyard fruits, nuts, and vegetables, they scavenge from garbage cans and compost piles. Pet food left outside overnight ranks high as a food resource and then, of course, some people deliberately provide food for raccoons. Young are generally born in April or May, but earlier and later litters are not uncommon. Litter size ranges from three to six young, averaging about four. Family groups usually remain together for the first year; the year-old young begin to assert their independence the following year when the new litter arrives. Because of the availability of food and den sites, urban and suburban raccoon populations can become very large. The raccoon (Procyon lotor) is a stocky mammal about 2 to 3 feet long and weighs 10 to 30 pounds. It is distinctively marked with a black "mask" over the eyes and is heavily furred with alternating light and dark rings around its tail. Raccoons are active year-round but may take cover in dens during periods of severe winter weather.
Raccoons are known to carry a number of diseases and internal parasites. The raccoon roundworm, an infection spread to people by the accidental ingestion or inhalation of roundworm eggs from raccoon feces, has caused increased concern in recent years. Roundworm infection can cause serious disabilities, and young children are thought to be most susceptible. Raccoons are also carriers of rabies. Although some chemical repellents are registered for use to keep tree squirrels out of an area, their effectiveness is questionable. There are also repellents that are added to birdseed that are supposed to prevent squirrels from feeding on the seeds, however, these, too, have shown little promise. Several types of kill traps are useful for tree squirrel removal, but they must be set in a way that will not accidentally trap non-target animals, including pets. This can be accomplished by placing the trap in a tree, or on a rooftop, and/or inside a box or wire cage with entrances no larger than three inches in diameter.
Remember only eastern fox tree squirrels can be killed without a hunting license or permit. Screening or blocking all potential entrance sites such as small gaps under the eaves, overlapping roof sections, and knotholes, can prevent tree squirrel access to buildings. Because they often travel on overhead telephone lines, power lines, and fence tops, they frequently find entrances at about these heights. When even a small opening is found, they can enlarge it by gnawing. In the absence of an obvious entrance, they can gnaw and create an entrance into an attic. Sheet metal or 1/4-inch wire hardware cloth are suitable materials for closing entrances. When closing entry routes, be sure you haven’t screened an animal inside the building. One way to test whether any squirrels are left is to plug the entrance with a loose wad of newspaper; if any remain inside they will remove the plug to get out.